1. Measure the fighter. IN armor.
Measure all the critical points first to know how big to cut your fabric for sewing.
The neck should go over the unarmored head and neck so it doesn't have to be armored for measuring.
1. Measure the neck and do not worry with armor on when sizing here; he will put the gorget on OVER the tunic anyway. And the helm will go on over that. So a close-fitting comfortable neckline like a T-shirt is desired. If you use bias tape, you don't need to worry about seam allowance here.
2. Measure the circumference of the arm at its width at the widest point with armor on, as the sleeves MUST fit over all armor at the absolute widest point.Remember to add seam allowance to both ends when cutting.
3. Measure the length of the arm, from the armpit to wrist, or desired sleeve length. Remember to add seam allowance to both ends when cutting.
3. Measure the length from the top of the shoulder to the desired length. Remember to add seam allowance room this when cutting.
4. Measure where the slit will go. He may want it on the sides, or he may want it in the front/back. It should land, like the diagram below (right before step 3) shows, just above where the crotch is. This allows full mobility of legs.
2. How to cut the fabric for the tunic.It's all in the fold.
Holding it as if it was a sheet of paper, the tall part up and down,
First fold the fabric downwards like this
Then fold it across like this, left to right.
Now you can cut out the shape!
But first we must get some measurements before we start cutting....
3. Now you will figure out the right measurements for your template. I HIGHLY recommend you do the first attempt at the tunic on a piece of practice material, like an old bed sheet, to be sure it's sized right before using your nice fabric. You'll probably want something like a nice heavy linen for the final tunic.
a) Take arm and divide by 2. The amount you get goes here.
For this tunic it was 13 inches here. Seam allowance added! Remember there will be 2 edges of fabric you're sewing on, and the hem will occupy additional space, so add in your seam preference x 2! So if you are used to leaving 1/2 inch between the edge of the fabric and where you're sewing, you'd add an extra inch! VERY important! Use a seam gauge to see how far away from the edge of the fabric you sewing.
b) Take the midsection girth measurement and divide it by 4. That's the amount to place here.
So for this tunic, that was 13.5, including the seam allowance amount.
c. The armpit length goes here
d. Add the mid-girth quatered number to the armpit length number, and that value goes here.
e. If you were using an existing template, you could put the neck of the folded finished tunic against your fabric and mark it for the cut. Otherwise just wait and cut the neck later.
Important! Seam allowance and neck varies based on how you're doing your neckline. If you choose to add bias tape around the neck, you do not have to leave any extra allowance.
4. Cut It Out
If you don't add extra inches for seam allowances, the tunic will be smaller than you measured it for! This is very important!
5. Unfold it
6. Sew it up - stop sewing at the split, if your slits will be on the sides. If not, then just keep sewing, and cut your slit on the front and back after you've sewn.
7. Hem the slits and the bottom.
8. Finish your neck.
To ensure I cut a neck that fit just right, I used dressmaker chalk to mark where the t-shirt neckline aligned on the template. Then I could cut it out and add bias tape over the edge.
9. Add the square. Placed over the top of the slit, it reinforces it.
Just make a square, hem in the edges, then sew it down over the slit.
10. Trim it, if you want to.
Tada!
