Making a Fighter's Tunic  

Posted by Mermaiden in , ,

1. Measure the fighter.  IN armor.

Measure all the critical points first to know how big to cut your fabric for sewing.
The neck should go over the unarmored head and neck so it doesn't have to be armored for measuring.



1. Measure the neck and do not worry with armor on when sizing here; he will put the gorget on OVER the tunic anyway.  And the helm will go on over that. So a close-fitting comfortable neckline like a T-shirt is desired. If you use bias tape, you don't need to worry about seam allowance here.
2. Measure the circumference of the arm at its width at the widest point with armor on, as the sleeves MUST fit over all armor at the absolute widest point.Remember to add seam allowance to both ends when cutting.
3. Measure the length of the arm, from the armpit to wrist, or desired sleeve length.  Remember to add seam allowance to both ends when cutting.
3. Measure the length from the top of the shoulder to the desired length. Remember to add seam allowance room this when cutting.
4. Measure where the slit will go.  He may want it on the sides, or he may want it in the front/back. It should land, like the diagram below (right before step 3) shows, just above where the crotch is. This allows full mobility of legs.

2. How to cut the fabric for the tunic.It's all in the fold.


Holding it as if it was a sheet of paper, the tall part up and down,

First fold the fabric downwards like this
Then fold it across like this, left to right.
Now you can cut out the shape! 
But first we must get some measurements before we start cutting....
3. Now you will figure out the right measurements for your template.  I HIGHLY recommend you do the first attempt at the tunic on a piece of practice material, like an old bed sheet, to be sure it's sized right before using your nice fabric. You'll probably want something like a nice heavy linen for the final tunic.

a) Take arm and divide by 2.  The amount you get goes here. 
For this tunic it was 13 inches here.  Seam allowance added!  Remember there will be 2 edges of fabric you're sewing on, and the hem will occupy additional space, so add in your seam preference x 2!  So if you are used to leaving 1/2 inch between the edge of the fabric and where you're sewing, you'd add an extra inch! VERY important!  Use a seam gauge to see how far away from the edge of the fabric you sewing.
 b) Take the midsection girth measurement and divide it by 4.  That's the amount to place here.
So for this tunic, that was 13.5, including the seam allowance amount.
c. The armpit length goes here

d. Add the mid-girth quatered number to the armpit length number, and that value goes here.


e. If you were using an existing template, you could put the neck of the folded finished tunic against your fabric and mark it for the cut.  Otherwise just wait and cut the neck later.
Important! Seam allowance and neck varies based on how you're doing your neckline.  If you choose to add bias tape around the neck, you do not have to leave any extra allowance.


4. Cut It Out
If you don't add extra inches for seam allowances, the tunic will be smaller than you measured it for!  This is very important!

5. Unfold it

6. Sew it up - stop sewing at the split, if your slits will be on the sides.  If not, then just keep sewing, and cut your slit on the front and back after you've sewn.

7. Hem the slits and the bottom.


8. Finish your neck.
To ensure I cut a neck that fit just right, I used dressmaker chalk to mark where the t-shirt neckline aligned on the template.  Then I could cut it out and add bias tape over the edge. 

9. Add the square.  Placed over the top of the slit, it reinforces it.
Just make a square, hem in the edges, then sew it down over the slit.

10.  Trim it, if you want to.

Tada!


Henna  

Posted by Mermaiden in ,

I audited a class on Henna at Gulf Wars.  Somehow, I had no idea it was herbal, or just hadn't really thought about it, before the class.  Now I find it of interest and would totally do it!  Anyway, here are my notes.  I scratched them down inside my class booklet so I thought I should put it all out somewhere it made more sense, so I can remember later.....

First, there are 3 terps (contain terpinol) that darken the colors: cardamom, lavendar, and tree tree oil.
Also added are lemon juice (no pulp!), sugar (it binds it), for darker stain, and of course the henna powder.


Mixed together, this should be about the consistency of stiff mashed potatoes. 
As you stir your mixture together, just add henna powder to thicken it if needed. 


It takes 24-48 hours for the color change to occur.  The dye will change, and this change varies based on every person's individual body chemistry.

The henna is applied with either jacks or cones.

You can add essential oils.  Make sure it's the real body-grade essential oil, not fragrance oils. A bit of something calming like lavender soothes the subject.

You can freeze leftover mixture for up to a year!  Just store the finished cones.  You can always reconstitute them all together later and have a nice batch of henna ready to use.

Where to get good quality henna?  www.thehennapage.com
hennapages.com has good info.
It should be a fine powder, soft is desired.  It should NOT be black henna.  This is not real.
"Black" henna is PPD and should be avoided!!!
*Side note, henna powder is soothing to the skin! You can add it to soap and prevent razorburn!

You can apply henna to non-skin, too!  You can paint with it.  Add some food coloring to the henna for colors.  Apply Mod Podge over it when finished to seal and protect it.

Now, to put henna art on a person.  Place the arm or subject you're working on upon a pillow.  This gives the part stability, plus you can move it around more easily as needed.

You can put henna in your hair and it makes a beautiful natural stain.  It's also incredibly strengthening and makes hair soft and smooth.  Leave in hair 4-5 hours and apply heat.  It repairs damage, helps strengthen, and also helps with dandruff.  Real henna will end up black/brown to blood red, purple, chocolate, orange....

It will last 1-3 weeks on skin, 4 months on hair.

Iron Mountain Singers  

Posted by Mermaiden in ,

Aranwen has picked up one more activity, too!  For the blog I will make a post about this to mention it here too.  Yes, I have started attending the singing night. Just 3 nights ago but already the parts of the tunes that I am singing are stuck in my head. Now I can't wait to get back to it Thursday. I know I will be doing better at it now that I have a feel for the music after the first night. I listened to the recording today so I could go over the music here at home. Repetition forms muscle memory, after all!  This I know from all the piano lessons I've had in my life........ and from Master Gareth teaching me about this being true for the recorder, as well! ;)

2nd Class  

Posted by Mermaiden in ,

Oh!  One more exciting note to blog about while I'm here. I'm excited to say that at Gulf Wars this year, I will be teaching along with Magdalena! We will be covering History of Herbals, followed by putting together your own herbal/field guide. Mistress Marsali has offered to demonstrate how to soft bind your own field guide which will be especially helpful to wrap this up, so to speak!

If you've seen any of my Identification Project notes, then you may have an idea of where I am going with what I have to offer on that class. ;)  It is always fun to share what you have learned with others.

Project - 2nd Round  

Posted by Mermaiden in ,

I guess I should have posted about this already, but I took my A&S project "Plantain Oil" to its second event - Midwinter A&S, last month. I had worked on some things to improve it since Magna Faire. I realized several more things I should work on, in preparation for its next event. There were some things which I had wanted to do yet didn't have time! But, I will have these things all done before Gulf Wars. :)

YIKES - Gulf Wars is almost here!!!!!

So after that, hopefully I will feel well prepared to do any further work to the entry and then take it on to... gulp... Kingdom A&S!  Well, that is the goal, anyway. :)

Roses, Distillation, Beads  

Posted by Mermaiden in ,

I hate that I missed out on the distillation class at Gulf Wars last year. I've been waiting until this year (almost here!!!!) to get the chance again. Well as luck would have it I found myself with something to distill so I had to grab a crash course courtesy of Google. Yes, I could have just frozen the rose petals and tried it later, but what fun would that be? It seemed like the most interesting thing to do with the petals so I went for it.


So I set up a kitchen-equipment method and tried it. But then I read that roses are hard to distill due to the heat damaging the delicate oil, plus you would need a TON of petals to actually extract an amount of any significance, I decided to go with a rose water instead. It's actually quite easy to do and I'm sure I'll be scooping up petals by the handfuls this summer from the front yard to continue making rosewater! The main difference is I added some water so that the petals would not be burned. The result is of course that there is water mixed in with the oil.


There isn't too terribly much of the liquid, as I just used the roses I had on hand.  And these were the last of the batch that Master Garreth gave out to all of the ladies on Valentine's day (wasn't that sweet!). 


As I was pouring out the liquid, I noticed a lovely reddish pink tint in the bottom of the pan and just knew I couldn't let that lump of petals go to the trash can. What else could I do with them?  Well, Google my friend once again helped me out. I could not really do a dye without some alum. But I sure could make Rose Beads! In fact, due to the heat and the liquid, the process is already underway quite nicely, from the sounds of it.

So yes, I took the lump and threw it in the blender. It smells like potpourri and it looks like a smoothie! Flower blend, anyone? No? Okay then, on with the next step. It has to hang out like this for 3 days so I'll have to revisit this topic later.

Waxed Linen Covers  

Posted by Mermaiden in ,

How did medieval people cover jars and bottles? I hear it's even better than saran wrap: waxed linen cloth.

How did they make it? --from a handy post from this forum:

A damp piece of cloth placed over a plate of food keeps flies off and what's underneath it nice all day.

Melt a small amount of beeswax in an old skillet. Dredge a piece of thin linen through the wax until soaked through, then lay out on kitchen foil or waxed paper to cool. The waxed linen makes a fantastic cover for just about anything from paint to food. I have a bunch of different sizes to cover pitchers, bowls of food, spices, condiments, etc.

Hold the cover over a heat source (careful, remember you're heating what amounts to a large wick) until softened, then use to cover anything you want. The wax sticks to the container and makes a nice seal. This is a great way to cover things like poached pears and blancmenger that are made early and eaten later in the day. Apparently, waxed covers were used in rural areas until the early years of the 1900s.