Making Salves & Balms  

Posted by Mermaiden in ,

I decided to put my class information into a digital guide by posting it to my blog. My class first began with how to make lip balms, so we will start there.

PS, check out other neat tutorials in the blog hop :)
The Chicken Chick


Summary

You can use the methods we learn here to create all kinds of balms, ointments, and salves. It doesn’t take many ingredients, and the process is really simple. In medieval times, herbs weren’t just for cooking.  They also used some herbs for household purposes. These types of items were used medicinally. Creating these preparations would help to keep the herbs preserved longer. This allowed them to use herbs year round when fresh ones weren’t available for picking. Plus it’s convenient because it’s already prepared and ready to use this way.

I took a class on making these lip balms at the Fall Coronation from William Ismead and he was happy to share his handout for my class. As did William, I also found some very helpful information from another SCA member’s class notes, Jadwiga Zajaczkowa, used here with her permission as well.  With some information from the internet to show you some common plants and how they were used both then and now, this guide should give you a start on the process.

The balm we’re going to create here is a simple and effective base recipe and we’ll turn this one into a lip balm. Since beeswax isn’t exactly tasty, we can add an essential oil for flavoring. It also smells nicer, too.

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A Brief Outline on the Use of Herbs in Medieval Period

Culinary plants and herbs were grown for use during the summer and were preserved to add to winter fare. Herbs and vegetables had to be harvested in quantity and preserved, usually by drying, to last through the long and arduous winter months. Some herbs were able to withstand winter in the ground and provided a yearlong bounty.
Winter savory, some oreganos, garlic, and chives are often able to grow through all but the harshest winter conditions. Other plants, such as basil, curry, lavender, coriander, tarragon, sage, and rosemary had to be harvested and dried. Herbs were usually dried in bundles hung in a cool place with good airflow for 2-3 weeks.
Meats were heavily seasoned with herbs, not because the food was going bad (although this certainly helped if the meat was towards the end of its keeping time…) they were heavily seasoned because that’s what the popular thing to do was.  The wealthy were typically able to support an herb garden capable of handling heavily spiced food at every meal and if the wealthy were doing it, well, the rest of the population would want to follow suit, of course. 
Household herbs included lavender, rosemary, sage, citron, pennyroyal, peppermint, and parsley, as well as many others. Such herbs were used to sweeten the air and to alleviate pests. Lavender, citron, and rosemary are still used today to deter fleas and moths.

Herbs were a wonderful way to not only sweeten the air, but it was also a great way to deter pests.  Interestingly enough, some of their herbs used to prevent fleas and other irritating bugs are still used today, like citrus (think citronella) and lavender.  These herbs were placed in the rushes that stuffed beds to prevent bed bugs and thrown about the floors where rushes were spread as a means of preventing cockroaches and other disgusting things. 
Medicinal herbs, such as all heal, feverfew, lavender, sage, peppermint, goose grass, tansy, dandelion, and boneset, were grown and dried for use during the winter. Herbs could be preserved dried for up to a year without losing their potency, or they could be powdered or added to fats to create ointments and pastes.
Willow bark, garlic, and some other medicinal herbs and plants could be harvested throughout the year. All heal, feverfew, and willow were used to break as well as prevent fevers. Lavender, sage, and peppermint were considered digestive aids. Goose grass and boneset were believed to be good for healing breaks and well as cuts and lesions. Dandelion was considered a purgative and diuretic.
The most important reason for the herb garden was for its medicinal purposes.  A bad harvesting season with herbs could be the difference of life and death for some people.  Herbs were used in many ways: putting the powder in broths and stews to consume, steeping them into a tea, leaving the leaves whole and placing them on affected areas, combining them with animal fat to create a salve to apply to the affected area, etc.  We use a lot of the herbs they used today like using lemon, chamomile and honey for sore throats and coughs, peppermint used in digestive aids and calendula (marigold) to be used for bruises, rashes and abrasions - you’ll find a lot of very high end baby products on the market today include calendula oil in their ingredients (especially the “natural” products).  These herbs made for health were also used as preventatives.  It was believed then that illness traveled through bad smells.
To combat the spread of illness, it was not uncommon for nobles to have small nosegays, or bundled herbs, made up for them to carry around.  When they were around something that reeked, they held it to their nose to inhale. They served the dual purpose of deodorant during winter months when bathing was all but impossible. 
As you can see, harvesting herbs and plants for winter use was very important for the castle, as well as the simple villager’s hut.  In poorer and middle class homes, these gardens were tended to by the wives and daughters of the family.  Obviously, then wealthy had servants who tended their gardens for them.  Some herbs were harvested at certain times of the year and then dried in cool, dark places that had good ventilation, other herbs never went out of season and could be used on a regular basis and replenish itself.  Of the herbs that were dried, they were good to use for up to a year before their potency would diminish.



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Some Herbs Used in Medieval Times

The below information came directly from http://herbvideos.com/medi.htm - See page for more.

I thought this page was especially nice because it shows some gardens that STILL exist to this day where herbs were grown and used way back then, in Medieval Europe.

MEDIEVAL EUROPE'S PRINCIPAL MEDICINAL PLANTS
The following plants were the principle herbs used by the villagers of Villandry, France in Medieval Europe. They are still grown at Villandry in the traditional medicine garden on the grounds. 

Medieval gardens, Villandry, Loire river.  
Garden of love, Villandry, France
 Medicinal Garden of the Middle Ages

Click hyperlinked text for more detail.

  • Angelica: Phytosterols,  No. 1 herb for women, PMS, expectorant, antispasmodic.
  • Chamomile: Abrasions, carminative, anti-ulcer, anti-arthritis, anti-acne, respiratory.
  • Fennel: Carminative, lactagogue, mild menstrual stimulant, treat diarrhea, cramps.
  • Feverfew:  To treat migraine headaches (prophylactic), treat arthritis, psoriasis.
  • Garlic:  Is anti-cancer, antibiotic, anti-microbial, heart disease protection.
  • Hollyhock: Immunity, fevers, dysentery, diarrhea, laxative, sore throats.
  • Lavender: Anti-stress, brain stimulant, vasodilator, antiseptic, spasms, sleep aid, headache
  • Lemon balm: Cooling, relaxing, anti-stress, vasodilator, colds, flu.
  • Lovage: Sedative, warms, diuretic, expectorant, spasms, anti-microbe, calcium sparer preventing kidney stones and PMS.
  • Mint: Carminative, antiseptic, muscle spasms, warming, cooling, stimulating.
  • Mullein: Upper respiratory infections, bronchitis, congestion.
  • Rose:  Bark and floral tea stimulating tonic to treat dysentery, kill worms, eye wash.
  • Rosemary: Anti-inflammatory, improve brain circulation, hypertensive, headaches.
  • Spiderwort: Root: laxative, kidneys. Aerial: insect repellent, bites, stings, wounds.
  • Wormwood: Bitters, anti-inflammatory, stimulant, antidepressant, worms, insecticide.
  • Yarrow: Warming, hypotensive, anti-inflammatory, diarrhea, styptic, immunity.
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The next page contains a guide to the oil to wax ratio you can use when making your own balms and salves. You can test your balm by dipping something in and taking out a drop, and placing the drop on a surface for just a moment to cool. Now you can sample the drop to check the thickness of your final product. Add more wax if it's too lose, and more oil if it's too hard for your liking. Remember too that the solidness, or lack thereof, determines in some cases what you call it. For example a salve or ointment might be looser, whereas a balm needs to be more stiff.


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The next page tells a bit about the type of oils you can use to make your balm. Now, a very basic balm is just oil plus wax. But you'll want to make something with herbs to add benefits to the product. While a really basic balm would protect dry skin, herbs add additional properties including healing and soothing, not to mention flavor/scent. 

It's important to know and understand the difference in what is meant by oils, when talking about making these preparations. You can make a cold infusion, a warm infusion, or you can use Essential Oils in your balm (*not* fragrance oils! Only real essential oils). I usually use EOs in addition to infused oil. Infused oil contains the extracted botanical constituents drawn out from herbs. EOs are are different. Take care when dealing with them because they are highly concentrated oils. A cold or hot infusion also draws the same oils from plants and puts them in a nice oil base you can use in your products, but it is more diluted. Making an herbal infusion is a way that you can utilize herbs you might ordinarily not be able to buy in an EO. Putting EOs directly into a carrier oil works too. 

Baking and candy flavorings are also tasty to use in lip balms! While they're certainly not period, there's nothing wrong with making your own personal balm taste good with these. Herbs and olive oil are great for the skin, but they may not always taste delicious. Peppermint EO is my favorite for lip balm. Citrus EOs are tasty too but beware that some are photosensitive meaning they magnify the effects of sun. (Just don't put it on then go out extensively in the sun or you'll burn your lips.) Not all EOs are period but some are. "Oils of: Roses, Cinnamon, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, Lavender (Spike), Lemons, Benzoin, and Thyme are mentioned in recipes." Also violet (but it is too expensive these days) http://www.gallowglass.org/jadwiga/herbs/oil&water.html 

In regards to the base oil, or carrier oil, to use in your infusion (and ultimately, in your salve/balm/etc product) -- Olive oil is the most typical ingredient to make your infused oils with. It's also period to use. There are many other oils you might choose to use, as well. Some of them are period and some aren't. This really doesn't matter for the purpose of practice and personal products unless you wanted to enter it in an A&S faire; the method use will still be same with each oil base.
"
Sunflower, safflower, olive, almond, avocado, jojoba, and coconut are only a few examples of what is available."If olive oil is too expensive, either shop at a wholesale store like Sam's/Costco, or try looking for pomace oil. It's the last press of olive oil (virgin is first press and more potent) so it's thought of as lesser quality, but it still works wonderfully for salves and balms! You can sometimes find this at restaurant wholesalers.
"Other kinds of carrier oils, such as sweet almond, canola, linseed, hempseed, poppyseed, were probably also used in period depending on availability and budget." http://www.gallowglass.org/jadwiga/herbs/preparations.html

Safety First!  First and foremost, know and understand the herb you are going to be including in your infusion. If you're not sure, use herbs known to generally be safe, like calendula, plantain, mint, rose, and lavendar. Always label your products because of allergies that others may have. When using unknown herbs, introduce a very small amount at a time and wait to ensure no reaction will occur. 
EOs are concentrated so they need to be diluted properly. An allergy could become exponentiated when handling straight oil. Hypersensitivity can also from the long term direct handling of an oil. 

Infused Oils

Making a cold infusion

You'll want to put dried herbs into a container of oil, covering the material completely, and leave for about a month.  Longer is OK if you forget or can't get to it after 3-4 weeks.  Setting the jar in a sunny windowsill or a warm place can help the material to release the oil.

Fresh herbs can be used, but in my studies I have learned about the risks of botulism, so especially for anything being ingested I would recommend never using fresh herbs. When making salves you're not going to be eating the end product but moldy oil is still not something you'll want to be putting on skin. That being said, medieval practice often included the use of fresh plant material, and it's something we still do today. I have safely done this many times. But I also tested dried versus fresh and found that the fresh material didn't yield a better end result. So why risk it?  Just let your herbs wilt and dry out for at least a day or two before you put them in your oil, and you practically eliminate the risk potential, because you've eliminated the water, which is the breeding ground for harmful bacteria. Air touching herbs from the surface is how they enter the oil. If you ever spot fuzzy growth, DUMP IT! It's a good idea to shake your infusion up periodically (daily if you like) just to help be sure no air pockets have formed inside, and helps you keep an eye on the surface.

One herbalist posts that she only infuses one type of herb fresh and that's St. John's Wort. This is because the flowers are very delicate. She also notes that sunflower oil is great to pair with this herb. http://kitchenherbwife.blogspot.com/2011/05/revising-basics-infused-oils.html 

Steps: Obtain your dried herbs. Crumble them up into a jar. Cover the herbs in oil, and wait.
When a few weeks have passed, just strain the herbs out of the oil, and that's it!

If you want to make a hot infusion,

First you'll need a heat source. Then you'll put your oil and herbs in a double boiler or maybe in a crock pot for several hours and warm over low, indirect heat. When done, strain herbs from oil. This method is faster than making a cold infusion, and by using indirect heat you will not destroy the healing properties of your herbs. The risk here is in overheating the oil though, which would of course ruin the constituents.  Here you can use fresh or dried herbs and it won't matter. 2-3 hours of simmer time is sufficient.


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Finally, make your balm. Combine infused herbal oil with wax, add in any other additives you want, and pour into a container to cool.  Essential oils must be added at the very end - I usually remove from heat first, then add, then pour. The heat will cause EOs to evaporate out rapidly. Some people will suggest that you use vitamin E oil in you products. While this is not "period" it is an antioxident. You may hear that it is a "preservative." Please do not be mistaken: while it can help the product to remain fresh for longer, it is not actually a preservative.

You only need to add true preservatives to herbal products if you are including fresh material, like oatmeal or pieces fruit. But adding something to help keep your product fresh is never a bad idea. It can extend the shelf life a bit. Usually your balms and salves will be good for the next year. They will begin to have a certain smell that you'll recognize as "not fresh"  after this length of time. If it smells stale, it is - throw it out. Then you get to make more! ;-)

You can put your balms and salves in round plastic containers, tins, or my favorite is actual lip balm tubes.  Here are some shopping links for you.

Containers
  • http://www.sciplus.com/
  • http://www.usplastic.com
  • http://www.sks-bottle.com

Herbs
  • Mountain Rose Herbs http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/
  • Bramble Berry http://www.brambleberry.com 

Essential oils
  • Bulk Apothecary http://www.bulkapothecary.com
  • From Nature With Love http://fromnaturewithlove.com
  • Essential Wholesale http://www.essentialwholesale.com/ 
Pomace & Olive Oil
  • http://www.webstaurantstore.com/search/pomace.html
  • Sam's Club (in store only) I like the 3-liter size for best price!
  • You could also check Costco. I only have a Sam's card so I don't know what Costco carries.
  • Check too to see if you have a local restaurant wholesale store you could shop at.

Waxed Linen Covers  

Posted by Mermaiden in ,

As I was cleaning up my apothecary this evening, I remembered something I've taught in classes before... herbs are better stored in glass bottles, not plastic bags! It will help to retain their freshness, their scent... their very essential oils. So don't lose potency in your hard grown, picked, and dried plants... place them in glass, I said to myself.  Hey! That's easy enough. For when you do what I do, you tend to collect jars that would be perfect for this or that, and have several on hand.

Well, things were going pretty well until I got to the really big jar and placed my rose petals inside. Great, there's no lid for this one. Well, that's alright! I also learned about the way people used to cover their jars. That's right - with waxed linen covers. So what did I do next? Well, I grabbed the linen scrap lying on the floor and some beeswax and ... yep, figured I'd create a guide to the process as I went along, so here we are!

  • Beeswax
    First, you'll need some beeswax. It doesn't matter what format you bought it in, but it will need to be small enough to melt down at this point. So grate it, shave it, chunk it up, or however you can best manage it. Maybe you're lucky and you bought it in pellets.
  • Next, the easiest way to do this is on a stove. So let's head to the kitchen.
  • Now, you're going to need a skillet. Something about the size of cloth you're wanting to cover is going to be easier to work in.
  • And for the best trick, some aluminum foil. This is to line your skillet!
  • Just in case things get too hot, have a grease splatter screen handy.
  • A utensil (fork is fine)
  • Preferably, go ahead and have something ready that you want to put the cover on when we're done here.
Ok, melt the wax in the foil-lined skillet on medium to low heat. Don't do this on high heat or the splatters will be so bad they'll sound like popcorn. If you get it too hot, don't worry, just put the cover on and turn down the temp a bit. You'll want to let all the wax melt completely, turning clear, before moving on to the next step.


Step 2, put your cloth in. Use your fork to help all of the cloth make contact with the melted wax, turning it over and moving it around until you feel like it's all set. Raise the cloth up out of the pan (holding it over the pan - it drips!) and excess wax will pool to one side if you tilt the pan, making it easier to finish any uncovered areas. If you find you didn't melt enough wax, it's ok! Just add more and continue until done.


The wax layer won't look white until you let the cloth cool, but when you feel ready just lift the cloth out of the wax and let it drip into the foil. As it cools you'll see the waxy look.  When it stops dripping, and feels like you can touch it without hurting your hands, place it over the container you wish to cover.




The best part about cleanup is you can just leave the wax in the foil and store it away until next time after it has cooled, which takes hardly any time at all.



Now, while the cloth is still warm and flexible, just shape the cloth over and around the opening. As the wax dries, it will keep whatever's inside in, and other stuff out, pretty darned well!


No wonder this stuff is thought of as the waxed paper of the middle ages. I think it's even better, though, because of how you can just warm it back up (even just a little hand warmth is enough) and move the cloth somewhere else, and it will form to it just as easily. (Place over opening, cover with your hand, holding it around where you want it to go. It will listen, and stay.)


Making Your First T-Tunic  

Posted by Mermaiden in , ,

So, you need some basic garb/costume clothing for the SCA! I can help you get a start on that. If you're ready to start making a few things of your own, I think a few basic T-Tunics are the perfect start.

First of all, you can check out the Known World Handbook for lots of handy patterns.
Second, you can also check the SCA's Chatelaine resources for newcomers for some links to sites with handy patterns. http://www.sca.org/officers/chatelain/newcomers.html
The one I am mainly going to model this post after is on the Introduction to Garb link, under "The Quicker Method -- with wide modern fabric" section.

If you can find a comfy t-shirt that fits loosely, you can use it as a guide to make your first tunic! (After that, you can use a tunic that fits well as your template for as many as you want!).
Just cut around it, leaving room for your seam allowance. Remember, it's better to be a bit loose than it is tight.

Take your fabric and lay it down flat. It really needs to be washed first, and ironed is preferable if it is wrinkled at all. If you're like me you will mentally balk over this at first, but trust me. Just do it.  It will save you hassle later when things don't work out right. It's so much easier to do while the fabric is nice and flat already anyway.

Next, you will cut it out to sew.

One method I used was to trace around the tunic or shirt (actually, a nightgown was my first) with dressmaker's chalk, and that was my line to sew on. You cut out the front and the back pieces and stitch them together.


 Or, just cut the fabric out, plus the extra room for the hem allowance. If you leave a 3/4" allowance, just be sure to come in 3/4" from the outside of the fabric as you sew.



Hem up your bottom hem,sleeves, and if you like, you can just add some bias tape around the neckline for a super easy finish off!  Now, if you want to, you can add some fancy trim around the sleeves and bottom. If you want to wait until you learn some simple embroidery stitches, you can make it look fancy that way too.

Want to know how to do a fancier neckline than the bias tape? Stay tuned for the next posting... we will learn together!

PS, I like this PDF.
http://snowplow.org/sarah/pers/SCA/tunics_stepbystep.pdf


SEE ALSO:


Making a Spiffy Tunic Neckline

Installing Gussets

My Notes from C&I Intro Class  

Posted by Mermaiden in ,

This is of course not a full class handout or anything.  Just my notes I wrote down during class, so I can remember these things! Thank you Lady Charmayne!


Paper
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- Use a standard size. Folks are going to want to put these in a frame, so make it easy on them.
8.5 x 11, 9 x 12, 11 x 17

- Hot press paper is smooth.  Good surface.
Cold press paper is bumpy.  Bad surface.

- Use acid-free. Card stock is ok to use. Parchment is the period paper, though this is a bit expensive so you can also use pergamenata which is vegetable based. Grab parchment scraps for cheap at Gulf Wars from the merchant there making and selling parchment.


Paint
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Goauche is the paint to use. It's a water-based paint. Mix it with a little water, and use.  It's non-toxic.  Though you can use watercolors (just use less water), goauche has more pigment.

You can also mix your own paints from powdered pigments, if you can find them!
*Note - Russian ones are cheap.  Avoid
Mix the pigments with gum arabic powder and water, and use.
* Nice tip, if you put these inside a little container to mix and paint from, you can just close it up when you're done and keep those nice pigments to use again later!
Griffin Dyeworks sells pigments.

Student grade paint is cheaper and more forgiving.
Michaels and Hobby Lobby craft stores sells a Reeves student grade paint.
Windsor is one professional brand. Newton has a kit online. Hoelbein is top of the line stuff.

Brushes
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Tiny! Use small brushes.  Ok, not like, microscopic, like 3 bristles, but you know.  Just really small ones.
Fake are somewhat easier, because real ones tend to shed.  Doesn't really matter though, either kind.

Stuff for a Kit
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Paint pots or palettes.  Palettes are scriptorium-friendly. Order covers for them.
*Note - never wash these!
A cup for clean water
A cup for dirty water. And make it doesn't look like a beverage glass. Somebody might accidentally drink that dirty paint water. Eww!
Paper towels
Pencils
Eraser
A thin and acid-free liner pen, if you wish to draw over your pencil drawing.
Ruler


Tips
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- Leave a 2" border around the outside. This accounts for a standard matte should the recipient frame the scroll.
- Leave room on the scroll for the calligraphy.
- Try to match the print and the art. You can put a note on the back to the calligrapher about what style to use. It helps them out a lot if you have something specific you're doing, especially.
- As for colors to use, colors that are "period" to use are black, white, blue, green, yellow, red, silver, gold.... some others, maybe? flesh? Not really orange or pink, they might be construed as a faded red. there is some controversy here, though. Surely they had to have used flesh tones since they have people on their scrolls. We do go ahead and use a flesh tone though, because we want to make the scrolls pretty. The recipient is by odds likely not to be a Laurel in the area of C&I.  They will appreciate a lovely looking scroll.  Appearances matter, so fussing over being perfectly accurate is not critical, unless perhaps you are planning on entering this scroll in an A&S competition, in which case just avoid those "other" colors!
- Leave room for words, signatures, and seals!  Don't make lines where signatures go.  But, it is ok to put a small circile where the seal will go. You can use a Dixie cup as a good guide on the size to leave available for the seal - currently in our Kingdom, it needs to be about an inch and a half or on up to 2 inches. You don't have to worry about leaving room for the Beacon Herald's seal unless it is certain scrolls.  That seal is huge!
- Scribe's signature. You should sign your work, but please don't make a blatent obvious mark on the front. A maker's mark is totally fine. But it should be subtle or small. Or, you can just write your name in pencil on the back. If you are painting someone else's art, write "painted by".
- Don't put someone's arms on the scroll unless you have been commissioned to do so.
- Know your group and your Kingdom awards.
Badges for specific awards should be on the design. The can still be given without, but please try to add these. For example, the Meridian Cross has a badge Scrolls for that award have that badge.
The badges are online right here.
*For example there are some widely unknown badges, such as the queen's award Bough
"The scroll must incorporate a cypress tree and should include a small frog in the design."
These specifics can be found in the Meridian Scribes handbook.
Pay attention to the color of the badge. Like for a Sable axe, use sable.

-Calligraphy -- don't worry about adding titles. This will be done later.  The current sovereigns may wish to use a different title than the standard Rex and Regina.


Documentation is not necessary!  But you can write down the source that inspired your desigin on the back.  "Inspired by ____"

Where to go
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Craft stores, Hobby Lobby and Michaels for paints and supplies
Parchment and pigment - you can pick them up at Gulf Wars
Join the Scribes Yahoo and Facebook groups
The Parchment Pursuivent website
Bagatelle

- Sources for art you can use to create original scrolls - original manuscripts, Dover coloring books, the Morgan library online, the Book of Kells, sacred texts, other scrolls - even other Kindgoms'. Bookstores - check the religion and history sections. Use trim to inspire borders!



Styles of Scrolls
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Early - Norse, celtic, No gold.  "Kiddie" like as far as styling.

Middle - Color book, in style.  Flowers and bars. Goldwork.  No people. Scrolly flowers and leaves. Red and blue bars mainly, and "squashed bugs"
(This means the trompe-l’oeil style that emerged during this age, which is "A style of painting that gives an illusion of photographic reality.") In other words, 3D looking art designs that no longer looked just flat.
(good source for this is: Dover book  Ready-To-Use Medieval Herb, Plant and Flower Illustrations: 294 Different Copyright-Free Designs)

And Late - "Rembrant!" Very fancy and pretty. Hours of work, lots of tiny stuff in the background (diapering). Lots of acanthus leaves used in these styles.


Wording.  Check out the typical examples here.
http://www.loggiaserena.com/Parchment/ScrollWordings/ScrollWordings.htm
But don't be afraid to suggest a new wording! Look at other examples and if you'd like to suggest a different text, just include a note on the back. Not all scrolls have to begin with the same old "Whereas."  Be creative.

See also
https://sites.google.com/site/ironmountainnewcomers/activities/scribes
https://sites.google.com/site/ironmountainnewcomers/what-is/regalia

Violet Oil  

Posted by Mermaiden in ,

Must write down my ideas to be sure I remember them later.  What a busy time of year. Finishing up A&S project work, preparing for Thanksgiving, and then it is time for Magna Faire!  Thank goodness I will have some vacation days off to tinker.

Thank you Lord William! He has helped me to realize what put  me off so much about the violet oil I created.  You see, I was concerned originally that perhaps something had not gone well because I did not dry the plants before making the cold oil infusion. However this was a common period practice, and is still done today. The risk for water being in the oil turning rancid is there. However with the freshly made oil spelling and looking exactly the same this much later, I know that it is not spoiled, it just smelled funny!  This is no different from plantain oil. It smells very pungent as well. And here's the key.  When you think of violet, you think of the delicate, yet strong, floral scent.  But oil is made from the leaves of the plant, not the flowers. So it smells nothing at all like the flowers.  And, here's the best part. It's not supposed to!  There is nothing at all wrong with my oil. I was just hesitant about it, not yet having any knowledge of such a thing. I have made quite a few oil infusions since then, both dried and fresh plants. I have learned about some herbs which would be best in a heated infusion, and some which are best done cold. And since I started making the infusions, I have made quite a few salves and balms with them, as well. I feel much, much better about this violet oil now.  ^_^

Plant Identification Project  

Posted by Mermaiden in ,

As an ongoing part of my Herbal guild work (SCA activity), I decided to start identifying the plants that surround me.  These things that are normally cut down as weeds have long since fascinated me but now I have found the purpose that drives me to identify them... the desire to learn their historical purpose.  This is a record of my findings.

Some of these, naturally, I will find are not herbs at all.  And some that I never knew were probably will be.

First you must learn to identify the plant by all its parts. Every stage of the plant's life cycle helps reveal secrets to its identity. So you must observe it from start to end.

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#10

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#11

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#12

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#13
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#14

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#15 and 16?

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#17

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#19

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#20

Carrot looking and smelling leaves
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#21

Persona Research  

Posted by Mermaiden in ,

Oh, how wonderful!  Look at this link I just came across.  It has the history of Wales in a summarized version right through the run of years I'm looking at.  I've already scoured Wikipedia, but this runs through a nice brief timeline all on one page.
http://www.britannia.com/celtic/wales/timeline/tl03.html

I still can't decide exactly when "she" would have been born but "the name Aranwen Ridhelic is a spelling appropriate for around 1200. The byname comes from 1194, when it appears in Geraldus Cambrensis' Descriptio Cambriae as Ridhelic."

The first Eisteddfod was held in 1176. Was she perhaps a youth at this time? Or maybe she was born in that year.  I was born in 1976 so I fancy this '76 year a bit. 

Isn't this bit quite fascinating?
"According to a popular Welsh legend, Prince Madog of Gwynedd, accompanied by a group of followers, made landfall on what is now Mobile Bay, Alabama some time in 1169."